Diran Peak Expedition

Diran, situated in the Rakaposhi-Haramosh Range in the western Karakoram, is a captivating mountain with some historical confusion about its height. However, it is now widely acknowledged to stand at 7,272 meters above sea level. This magnificent peak graces the Gilgit Valley, enhancing its rugged beauty with a touch of splendor.

In 1968, a determined Austrian expedition, composed of Rainer Goschl, Rudolph Pischinger, and Hanns Schell, set their sights on Diran. Their initial aim had been to climb Kampire Dior peak, but permission was denied, leading them to tackle Diran. The expedition established its first camp at an altitude of 4,800 meters. The journey to the summit presented daunting challenges, including treacherous crevasses, harsh weather conditions, and deep snow. It wasn't until they reached camp III that they successfully reached the peak, describing it as a "big summit plateau."

The mountain's history includes a 1958 British expedition to Diran, which faced unfortunate circumstances as its leader, E.G.C. Warr, and a member, F.C. Hoyt, disappeared in a storm when they were just 300 feet from the summit.

In 1959, a German Karakoram expedition led by Hans Jochen Schneider aimed to conduct geological and geophysical surveys in the Batura Glacier area but was denied permission. As a result, they shifted their focus to the Rakaposhi region. On June 9th, one of the team members, Erwin Stocker, along with a porter, reached an 18,000-foot col located north of Diran. The expedition came within less than a thousand feet of the north-west face of the summit.

Subsequent attempts were made, including a 1964 Austrian expedition from Salzburg that faced challenges due to bad weather and avalanche risks. The expedition, consisting of only three climbers, was unable to conquer Diran.

In 1965, a Japanese expedition from the Kyoto Mountaineering Federation made a valiant effort to reach the summit. Despite coming remarkably close, within 250 feet of the north-west face, the climb had to be abandoned due to strong winds and swirling snow.


Days Activities Overnight
1 Arrive at Islamabad and transfer to hotel HOTEL
2 Drive to Chilas on Karakorum highway 1-12hrs HOTEL
3 Drive to Minapin 5-6 hrs 2012m HOTEL
4 Trek to Hapakun 4-hrs 2804m CAMPING
5 Trek to Tagaphari 3-4hrs 3261m CAMPING
6 Trek to Diran Peak base camp 5-6hrs 3650m CAMPING
7-26 20 days for climbing CAMPING
27 Trek down to Tagaphari CAMPING
28 Trek down to Minapin and drive to Karimabad 45minutes HOTEL
29 Full day explore Hunza valley HOTEL
30 Drive to Besham 9-10 hrs HOTEL
31 Drive to Islamabad 6-7 hrs HOTEL
32 Transfer to Islamabad airport for international flight