Chogolisa Expedition

Chogolisa, also known as Bride Peak, is a majestic mountain located in the Karakoram region of Pakistan. It is nestled near the Baltoro Glacier within the Concordia region, which is renowned for hosting some of the world's highest peaks. Chogolisa boasts several peaks, with the highest one on the southwest face, known as Chogolisa-I, rising to an impressive 7,665 meters (approximately 25,147 feet).

In 1909, an expedition led by the Duke of the Abruzzi made a notable attempt to conquer Chogolisa. They reached an elevation of 7,498 meters (approximately 24,600 feet) from a base camp situated on the northern side, with a high camp established on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 meters. Unfortunately, inclement weather prevented them from ascending further, but their daring climb set a new world altitude record.

In 1957, Austrian mountaineers Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger embarked on their own expedition to conquer Chogolisa, following their successful ascent of Broad Peak just a few weeks prior. On June 25, they left camp I and set up camp on a saddle at 6,706 meters along the southeast ridge. However, an unexpected snowstorm on June 27 forced them to retreat, and during their descent, tragedy struck. Buhl broke off a significant cornice and fell onto the mountain's nearly vertical north face. Regrettably, his body has never been recovered.

On August 4, 1958, a Japanese expedition, led by Takeo Kuwabara from the Academic Alpine Club Kyoto University, successfully summited Chogolisa II, with Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai reaching the pinnacle.

The historic first ascent of Chogolisa I took place on August 2, 1975, courtesy of Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer, who were part of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. During their climb, Koblmueller faced a near-fatal incident similar to Buhl's, as he fell through a snow cornice. Fortunately, he was roped to team members who managed to pull him to safety.


Days Activities
1 Arrive to Islamabad transfer to hotel
2 Briefing in alpine club of Pakistan
3 Islamabad-Chilas 11-12 hrs.Overnight at hotel
4 Chilas-Skardu 8-9 hrs drive. Overnight at hotel
5 Skardu rest day at skardu overnight at hotel.
6 Skardu-AskoliChogolisa Peak Seen from The distance on Baltoro glacier.overnight at camp
7 Askoli-Bardumal. overnight at camp.
8 Bardumal-Paiju.overnight at camp
9 Rest Day at paiju.overnight at camp
10 Paiju-Urdukus.overnight at camp.
11 Urdukus-Goro II.Overnight at camp
12 Goro II-Vigne Glacier.Overnight at camp
13 Vigne Glacier-Base Camp
14-36 Climbing
37 Base Camp-Goro II.overnight at camp
38 Goro II-Paiju.pvernight at camp
39 Paiju-Korofong.overnight at camp
40 Korofong-Askoli.overnight at camp
41 Askoli-Skardu.overnight at hotel
42 Skardu-Chilas.overnight at hotel
43 Chilas-Islamabad.overnight at hotel
44 Debriefing and overnight at hotel.
45 Departure to your own destinations